Harriot has brought a touch of magic to the business end of town.
Harriot, the Conferre Group (Tipo 00, Osteria Ilaria, Figlia and Grana)’s fifth venue, is its first not to identify as Italian. Its identity is broadly European, fusing the best parts of the team’s favourite wine bars and neo-bistros in London, France, Italy and Spain – venues that marry classical cooking with modern flourishes while exuding an effortless cool.
Chef James Kelly (Embla)’s offering will look slightly different every week, but stars of his opening menu include a rye tartlet filled with fermented porcini mayonnaise and bluefin tuna; and lamb sweetbreads, cooked sous vide in brown butter and finished in a grenobloise-like sauce with the addition of finger lime.
Pig’s-head terrine is the tip of the iceberg in Kelly’s commitment to whole-animal butchery, one of many uses for the McIvor Farm pigs he sources. Dark-crusted sourdough baked in the wood-burning oven, and two types of house-made pasta are anchor items. You might also find gnocchi in swirls of cavolo-nero puree and comte cream with a generous shaving of black truffle, and spanner-crab ravioli with a bisque that uses fermented pumpkin in place of tomato.
Desserts include an airier-than-your-average chocolate tart, lightened with sabayon, and a rhubarb sherbet with burnt vanilla and white chocolate.
Sommelier Justin Howe presides over a burgeoning wine cellar, already with more than 500 bottles, some of which he collected years ago. A $110 wine pairing is available alongside the $148 tasting menu, often with some exclusive dishes.
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