Lactic acid, which is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), is an ingredient found in many over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. As an antioxidant and exfoliant, lactic acid gently removes dead skin cells, improves the appearance of skin, and lightens dark spots. When used properly, it may also help hydrate rough, dry skin.
To incorporate lactic acid into your skincare routine, first consider your skincare needs and your skin type. People with oily skin types can use lactic acid more frequently, while people with dry or sensitive skin types may need to use it less frequently. Talk to a dermatologist about safe use for your skin type, especially if you are using a prescription skincare regimen or products.
Once your dermatologist clears you to use products with lactic acid, here are some tips to get you started:
- Check the ingredients on your current skincare products: If you are already using products with other AHAs, beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), or retinoids, you may not need an additional product with lactic acid. This is because these ingredients have exfoliating properties.
- Choose the product type based on how often you want to use lactic acid: Cleansers and moisturizers are meant for daily use, while scrubs or chemical exfoliants are used less frequently. If you have dry or sensitive skin and don’t want to use lactic acid every day, you may want to choose an exfoliant with lactic acid that you’ll use weekly and opt for a gentle, hydrating cleanser to use daily.
- Start with a lower concentration: Skincare products that contain lactic acid contain concentrations of 10% or less. Greater concentrations of lactic acid are typically found in professional treatments like chemical peels. If you have never used a product with lactic acid, start with a lower concentration, especially if you have sensitive skin.
- Test a patch of skin to see how your skin reacts: For about seven to 10 days, apply a quarter-size amount of the product to the inside of your elbow. If you do not develop irritation or a rash, the product is likely safe to use.
- Follow the package instructions: Some product manufacturers recommend using their product every day, while others suggest once or twice a week. For best results, follow the instructions unless directed otherwise by a dermatologist.
- Wear sunscreen every day: AHAs like lactic acid make your skin more photosensitive. This means you may burn more easily in the sun or develop redness and irritation. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent skin damage.
Products with lactic acid work to remove dead skin cells and promote skin cell turnover, which helps reduce dullness and improve your skin’s appearance and texture. More skin benefits of lactic acid may include:
- Hydrates skin: Although overusing lactic acid can be drying, the ingredient has hydrating capabilities. It can improve the appearance of dry, rough skin and help maintain hydration by attracting water to your skin.
- Serves as an antimicrobial: Lactic acid helps stop the growth of bacteria, which may help control breakouts. It can also help unclog pores and remove excess oil.
- Addresses some skin conditions: Research has found that lactic acid may reduce the scales produced by psoriasis. Studies also show it relieves itching and restores the skin’s barrier in people with eczema.
- Helps fade signs of discoloration: Researchers have found that products with a 5-12% lactic acid concentration are effective exfoliants. These concentrations may also be helpful in addressing skin discoloration or hyperpigmentation (dark spots).
- Stimulates collagen production: Lactic acid is an exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells and promotes cell renewal. When that happens, it also stimulates collagen production in the skin. Collagen helps maintain skin structure and elasticity.
- Smooths fine lines and wrinkles: As an exfoliant that removes dead skin cells and promotes skin cell turnover, lactic acid may also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Although lactic acid is gentler than some other AHAs like glycolic acid, it is still an exfoliant and can irritate your skin. If you have dry or sensitive skin, you need to be cautious when using any type of exfoliant. Using too much or applying it too frequently can irritate your skin.
Also, regardless of your skin type, AHAs like lactic acid can make your skin more susceptible to sunburn and redness. For this reason, it’s important to use sunscreen and take sun-protective measures like wearing a hat and sunglasses outdoors.
Here are some other potential side effects of lactic acid:
- Redness
- Swelling
- Burning
- Itching
- Peeling
- Dryness
- Rough patches
If you develop a rash, swelling, irritation, itchiness, or redness that does not go away or gets worse—even after you have stopped using products containing lactic acid—you should see a dermatologist or other healthcare provider. They can evaluate your skin and make recommendations on how to alleviate your symptoms. They can also determine if your reaction is an allergy or something else.
Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is often found in over-the-counter skincare products. It functions as an antioxidant and exfoliant and removes dead skin cells, improves your skin’s appearance, hydrates, and lightens dark spots. Lactic acid can also be helpful for people who have skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema.
If you are considering adding lactic acid to your skincare routine, consider your skin type and check your product ingredients. If you are using products that already exfoliate your skin, adding lactic acid may cause irritation. Talk to a dermatologist to determine if lactic acid is right for your skin type and your skincare needs.
